Category | Notes from Kosovo
Notes from Kosovo

From 2010 to 2018, I had the privilege of serving as a consultant to the Ministry of Education in Kosovo. I was struck with the warmth of the people, the commitment of the educators, and the deep love and appreciation held for the United States. These “notes” are dedicated to the friends I made there.

In a Heartbeat

In a Heartbeat

It was the nightmare I had been hoping to avoid. I had arrived at the inescapable conclusion: I would have to go to the emergency room. Questions that I had been worrying about now needed quick answers. Where was the nearest ER? Would they speak English? Would my insurance pay for medical treatment in Kosovo? Who should I call for help?

I had already experienced three episodes of atrial fibrillation dating back to 2009. The first two times, my heart righted itself with little effort – some IV hydration or a dose of a fast-acting beta blocker. The third time was a bit more dramatic. The easy fixes didn’t work and I was sedated for a procedure called cardioversion – the application of two electric paddles that deliver a shock to the heart to jolt it back into rhythm. The attempts were unsuccessful and my heart continued to go rogue through the night until it decided on its own to return to regular beats. These two instances left me feeling uneasy and, although I had not had a reoccurrence in many years, it had remained a background fear as I traveled to unusual places such as Kosovo and the Caribbean Island of Nevis. read more…

Afternoon in Prishtina

Afternoon in Prishtina

While snow piles up in Vermont and New Hampshire, I have to buy a pair of sunglasses to shield my eyes from the bright Prishtina sun because it never occurred to me to pack my own. It is in the mid-fifties and I sweat a bit under the scarf and winter coat that I packed for my February trip to Kosovo as I walk with a quick pace to keep up with the urban throngs on the pitted sidewalks. I’m heading to Mother Theresa Square, the pedestrian mall lined by benches, bistros, and shops. As I pass the government complex, I look up and I see the American flag. It flies third in a row of five flagpoles in front of the buildings that house, among other governmental agencies, the Ministry of Education and Sports, or MEST as it is known. It is where I have come to work as a consultant and how I landed by myself in this tiny Balkan nation. read more…

America As Seen from Afar

America As Seen from Afar

It turns out that I had worried needlessly. America is still king in Kosovo. The country that led the NATO charge in the Balkans war in the nineteen nineties is still revered beyond all others in this tiny nation state.

I’ve been to Kosovo three times since our (2016) election. I had been looking for clues to their reaction to the surprising result. I wanted them to be as concerned as I was. But I hesitated to criticize my country while abroad, so I proceeded guardedly. I found when I would make an oblique reference to the new president, it would be met with polite silence. What were they thinking? I would wonder. Is it that they didn’t agree with me and were not bothered by what they saw and heard? Or were they afraid to offend me? By the end of my trip, I would discover the reasons for their silence. read more…